Biased Cut

The “Man-Purse”

Jonathan — Sun, 25 Jul 2010 15:00:59 +0000

I like my “man-purse” in a very particular way. A simple design with durable and high-quality material. Brown leather handles are a must. The following are some of my favorite briefcases and weekend bags. The prices range from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars, but they all serve the same purpose – practical everyday bags suitable for work and play.

Delvaux Newspaper Briefcase – $2,000

J.Crew Kansai Case – $285

Glenroyal Briefcase - $410

Reiss tweed leather bag

Swaine Adeney Brigg Business Holdall – $1,690

Biased Cut: Pulling back the curtains

Eric — Fri, 16 Jul 2010 06:22:02 +0000

This post has been a long time coming. For all of our devoted customers, and anyone that has been (or hopefully will be) interested in what Biased Cut is all about, we’d like to show a little bit of what’s behind the scenes.

Two months ago I made the trip out to visit my Biased Cut compatriots in Hong Kong, and recorded some of it along the way. Since the beginning, we’ve sourced and made all of our shirts in Hong Kong (though fabrics come from all over the world). The quality and craftsmanship available here are enough reasons to work with local tailors, but we feel that the value is what really makes it a no-brainer. And it’s certainly not some type of tortuous rural Chinese sweatshop – it’s a comfortable facility in a downtown high-rise.

Up on the 18th floor our master tailor works with each and every customer order, reviewing them on shirt pattern software. As exact as our measurement process is, you can rest assured that there is a true expert confirming shapes and sizes while massaging out any irregularities that may arise.

Once the go-ahead is given, the pattern is printed out.

The printer (or plotter) spits out a life size tracing of the shirt to guide the tailor in cutting the fabric.

Once the fabrics are cut, the seamstresses begin sewing it all together. Collars, cuffs, pleats, darts, buttons, and monograms – they’re all done here.

The shop, with its sweeping Hong Kong view.

From here, each shirt receives a quality control inspection before being sent out to the customer.

Of course, my visit wasn’t all about the tailoring of the shirts – we made sure to give them a try in the field as well. Below, the Biased Cut team: Annie, Jonathan, and Eric.

A vintage find with actual story

biasedcut — Sat, 29 May 2010 18:09:19 +0000

When we buy a vintage item on Etsy or from antique and thrift stores, we don’t usually know who it belonged to or from when it was used. So we’re left to our own imagination. But our imagination is just that: some fuzzy self-created fantasy conjured without specific facts. As much as we’d like to think that there’s a story behind our newest Etsy vintage find, be it a rusty pocket watch or a Western leather belt, they don’t come with words.

But yellowed postcards that were written on and postmarked, sent, received and read, offer an explanation. Like who the postcard was addressed to and where they lived, who wrote the postcard, where the postcard was sent from (the Piazza di San Marco). And a message. A personal message for someone who is not yourself. The interception of such a note, even one as simple as “Buon Giorno!” is enough to make one feel a bit… Sherlock Holmsey, for lack of a better term.

Then there’s the handwriting. For the typography-crazed, perhaps a minute’s peek at someone’s penmanship will yield a refreshing study. You see the inconsistency of his y’s, sometimes with a looped tail and sometimes without; the meticulously even spaces between words, as if he placed his forefinger between each one to measure. His spiky letters stick straight up like picket fences without a bit of slant to them. You can see exactly where he ran out of ink, and you wonder if that second, when he dipped his pen for more, allowed him to swat away a sweat bead.

With postcards that were actually written on, you get the historical facts, dates and names, that offer the limbs from which your own daydreams can stem. When you hold an ink-blotted and browned postcard in your hand, you know that it has travelled not only in time but across distances. And more than all of that, you know that someone had been important enough for somebody else to write to them. Mary had been on Giorgio’s mind when he was standing on the steps of the cathedral in Italy. And because Giorgio took the time to write to her, Mary isn’t just Giorgio’s somebody. She’s yours, too. You have her postcard, you have her name. Now you can make her story.

Sharp Bikes from Electra

biasedcut — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 03:05:06 +0000

Sometimes we’re so caught up in the constant fast movement of cars and public transportation that a leisurely ride on a bicycle is a welcome break. They also promote benefits of exercise, environmental-friendliness, and – don’t forget – style! Electra Bicycle Company has models that combine form and function at a moderate price range ($399+). Other than their chic bright colors, a distinguishing trait of Electra bikes according to their website is their “Flat Foot Technology” that allows a more “upward, forward-pedaling position…Now, power and efficiency are combined with comfort and control.” Sounds like a great package to us!

Weekly Tracks

biasedcut — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 00:06:14 +0000

Twin Sister; Download track “I Want A House” free

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Brasstronaut; Download track “Slow Knots” free

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Keepaway; Download track “Yellow Wings” free

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Tunng; Download track “Hustle” free

Stacking up against the competition

biasedcut — Fri, 16 Apr 2010 04:15:43 +0000

Recently we were privileged to participate in the first (at least to our knowledge) head-to-head review of online MTM shirt makers (or designers, as we prefer to think of ourselves). Magnificent Bastard reviewed the whole process, all the way from entering your measurements to trying on the shirt, for 7 different companies.

We’ll let you read through for the details, but we’re humbled to report that we were crowned the title of “best fit”! Cue applause to our expert tailor for that one.

For everything else, we think the review was pretty accurate – simple measurement inputs, a painless order process, and high quality fabrics and construction. Yes, our shirt customizations and fabric selection are limited – intentionally so. Speaking of fabric selection, we’ll be releasing a few more relatively soon. Previews to come next week.

So, thanks to the guys at Magnificent Bastard, and if you’re looking for some objective reviews on your custom shirting options out there today, head on over for a quick read. And, props to all the other shirt companies – we respect what they’re doing and it’s always interesting seeing their ideas.

Weekly Tracks

biasedcut — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 01:51:35 +0000

No music posting last week just means this week’s music is THAT much better.

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Javelin; Download track “Vibrationz” free

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Wye Oak; Download track “I Hope You Die” free

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Gauntlet Hair; Download track “I Was Thinking” free

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The Apples In Stereo; Download track “Dance Floor” free

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Smooooth jazz… from a super group? Comprised of members from many of the bands we’ve featured here: Solid Gold, Bon Iver, The Rosebuds, plus others.

Gayngs; Download track “The Gaudy Side of Town” free

Hustle Combo

biasedcut — Tue, 30 Mar 2010 23:00:34 +0000

We think our Hustle, the dodger blue gingham shirt, is so versatile it can be worn for almost any occasion. But just in case you’re stumped, here’s one way we’ve envisioned. The cotton blazer is of a great form-fitting cut (something with which MTM shirts are extremely flattering) and with a high single button. Throw in a subtle pocket square, and call it a day. (We aren’t *necessarily* advocating going pantless, we’re just leaving the bottom half to you. However if you are looking to expose some leg, try Farah’s shorts to complete the suit).

Farah Vintage Blazer ($230)

J. Press Linen Pocket Square ($35)

Biased Cut Hustle Shirt ($85)

Weekly Tracks

biasedcut — Tue, 30 Mar 2010 01:09:09 +0000

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My Brightest Diamond; Download track “Inside A Boy” free

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Tanlines; Download track “S.A.W” free

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Plants and Animals; Download track “Tom Cruz” free

Summer canvas totes from Calabrese

biasedcut — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 14:56:24 +0000

Calabrese seems like a young and exuberant tote brand, so it might come as a surprise that it was initially established in 1920 as a tie collection. The founder, Eugenio Calabrese, was an avid tie collector who began designing his own line. In the 1960′s, Eugenio’s son, Sir Francesco, began distributing the ties to top boutiques. Fast forward a couple decades, and today we see a line of modern totes that are both practical and stylish, with their light and durable materials and fun pop colors. We especially like their Lapis Medium Canvas Tote, priced at $173.25. Available at my-wardrobe.com and atoo.co.uk.